UW-Madison Libraries Exhibits

Special Collections Gallery

Made by Women

Curated by Molly Nelson


Made by Women

The contributions of women can be too often overlooked in many arenas, and the history of bookbinding is no exception. While there are clear records of women’s participation in some of the earliest histories of bound volumes, the 19th century industrialization of book production led to an even more significant shift with female employees outnumbering men 3:1 in some prominent binderies by 1850 (such as that of Boston-based Benjamin Bradley). Census data shows an overall majority female workforce for American binderies by 1890. Concurrently, female artists dominated the realm of book cover design, outpacing other artistic practices of this period. This page displays a selection of signed bindings which feature design work from eight of these important women designers (all for books that were additionally authored by women).

"A book cover featuring a red design on an off-white background. A tall, stylized red flower sits above the author's name, which is written in a red serif font."
Jewett, Sarah Orne. Betty Leicester: A Story for Girls. Second Printing. Boston, Houghton Mifflin and Company: The Riverside Press, 1890. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers

Jewett, Sarah Orne. Betty Leicester: A Story for Girls.

Cover design by Sarah Wyman Whitman

Sarah Wyman Whitman (1842-1904) is often considered the preeminent pioneer of artist-designed book covers. Whitman was also the first book cover designer acknowledged as having developed her own signature typeface, which is easily recognized by the curved ‘E’, and many of her designs are further distinguished by her iconic “flaming heart” monogram. Exhibited here are two examples of Whitman’s design work for Sarah Orne Jewett, a New England author who became a close personal friend to Whitman. With Betty Leicester:  A Story for Girls, we see an example of how Whitman’s design was updated to appear in inverted colors between early and later printings from 1890 and 1899. 

"A book cover featuring a gold design on an off-white background. A tall, stylized gold flower sits above the author's name, which is written in a gold serif font."
Jewett, Sarah Orne. Betty Leicester: A Story for Girls. Boston, Houghton Mifflin and Company: The Riverside Press, 1899. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers

"A green, cloth-bound book cover, featuring an ornate gold-leaf illustration of a trellis with climbing vines. The title, along with the names of contributor Ida M. Tarbell and illustrator E.R. Lee Thayer, are printed in a matching gold-foil serif font."
Tarbell, Ida M. (Ed.). The Book of Woman’s Power. New York, Macmillan, 1911. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers.

Tarbell, Ida M. (Ed.). The Book of Woman’s Power

Cover design by Bertha Stuart; Illustrated by Emma Redding Lee Thayer

From a design perspective, this volume is significant as it represents contributions from not one but two influential female designers of this period. The binding was designed by Bertha Stuart (1869-1953) while the interior illustrations were produced by Emma Redding Lee Thayer (1874-1973). Stuart, who studied in both Chicago and New York, designed nearly 170 known titles, while Thayer was a central member of the Decorative Designers, a collective of artists who produced an astonishing number of book cover designs between 1895 and 1931. As a member of a collective, it is less certain how many books were specifically designed by Thayer, but there are over 25,000 book covers, dust jackets, and other artistic book elements signed with the Decorative Designers’ collective “DD” monogram. 


Adam, Juliette. My Literary Life.

Cover design by Amy Richards.

This cover for My Literary Life was designed by Amy Richards, one of the two women amongst 38 contributors of the 1906 publication, The Building of a Book: A Series of Practical Articles Written by Experts in the Various Departments of Book Making and Distributing edited by Frederick H. Hitchcock. 

Within this text, Richards authored the chapter on “Cover Designing” in which she provides “a practical account of how these book covers are made” and states:

“the designing of book covers is a minor art, but since there is a constant demand for ornamental covers, the more taste and skill that can be devoted to the making of them, the better. When one looks back to the covers of fifteen years ago, one realizes what an advance has been made, and that the standard has been raised higher and higher.” (p. 220)

"A light blue, cloth-bound book cover of the book featuring an ornate gold and green neoclassical frame surrounding the title. Above the title is a gold-foil illustration of an open book topped with a torch, all set against a background of vertical green leaf-and-dot patterns."
Adam, Juliette. My Literary Life. New York, D. Appleton and Company, 1904.

Reed, Myrtle. The White Shield.

Cover design by Margaret Armstrong

These are two versions of The White Shield, a collection of short sketches by Myrtle Reed (1874-1911) which was published posthumously in 1912, one year following the author’s untimely death by suicide. Both examples feature the design work of Margaret Armstrong (1867-1944) whose art was applied both to the lavender, vertically ribbed cloth binding in tones of purple, cream, and gold as well as to the limp red leather binding, stamped in gold. 

In addition to the title on view here, Armstrong contributed cover art for at least 14 of Reed’s 17 published novels between 1899-1913. Through many of these designs, including the present example, Armstrong’s artistic agency can be witnessed in the decorative use of multiple colors, an expensive process as each color requires its own dye and stamping process. The second example displayed here, with the limp red leather cover, demonstrates also that despite the revolutionary impact of bookcloth, its introduction did not mark a total departure from the long history of decorative leather bindings.

"A light blue, cloth-bound book cover featuring an intricate gold, white, and purple Art Nouveau floral design. A long-stemmed lily in white tones and gold is displayed at the center."
Reed, Myrtle. The White Shield. New York, G.P. Putnam’s Sons: Knickerbocker Press, 1912. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers.
"A red, cloth-bound book cover featuring an intricate gold Art Nouveau floral design. A long-stemmed lily in gold-outline is displayed at the center."
Reed, Myrtle. The White Shield. New York, G.P. Putnam’s Sons: Knickerbocker Press, 1912. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers.

"An olive-green, cloth-bound book cover featuring an elaborate gold Art Nouveau floral pattern. The gold-leaf design forms a central archway that frames the book title, which is written in a stylized, gold serif font."
Singleton, Esther (Ed. and Trans.). Famous Women as Described by Famous Writers. New York, Dodd, Mead & Company, 1904. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers.

Singleton, Esther. Famous Women as Described by Famous Writers.

Cover design by Alice Cordelia Morse.

This cover was designed by Alice Cordelia Morse (1863-1961). Unlike many of her professional peers who were raised in affluent families, Morse grew up in middle-class conditions, and benefitted from the emergence of opportunities after the Civil War when large numbers of women were left single or widowed and in need of means to support themselves. Morse took full advantage of these new educational opportunities and enrolled both in the Women’s Art School of Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art and the New York Society of Decorative Art. By the mid-1880s, Morse had graduated from Cooper Union and began working as a designer and painter of stained glass for Tiffany & Co. while developing an interest in the growing field of book-cover design where she would be remembered as a significant contributor.

Burnham, Clara Louise. The Right Princess.

Cover design by Evelyn W. Clark.

This cover design has been attributed to Evelyn W. Clark, whose design practice extended beyond cloth publishers’ bindings to include other techniques more closely associated with traditional artistic binding methods and other decorative arts. In a 1902 advertisement published in The International Studio, Clark invited readers to apply for her services in “Lessons given during the summer in Carved, Tooled and Modelled Leather, and in Book Cover designing.” Clark additionally contributed a great number of pieces to the Fifteenth Annual Exhibition of the Architectural League of New York in 1890, among other exhibitions more closely associated with interdisciplinary artisanal practices central to the Arts & Crafts movement at this time.

"A light green, cloth-bound book cover, featuring an Art Nouveau design with dark green thorny vines and delicate peach-colored flowers. The book's title and author's name are printed in gold-leaf serif font, each framed by an ornate vine-like border."
Burnham, Clara Louise. The Right Princess. Boston and New York, Houghton Mifflin Company: The Riverside Press Cambridge, 1902. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers.

"A bright yellow, cloth-bound book cover, featuring a green and black illustration of a boy and girl standing together. The title and author's name are printed in a gold-leaf serif font at the top, and the girl is depicted holding a large green bird."
Alcott, Louisa May. A Hole in the Wall. Boston, Little Brown, 1889. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers.

Alcott, Louisa May. A Hole in the Wall.

Cover design by Amy Sackler.

Amy Sacker (1872-1965) was a native of Boston, where she was able to study at the School of Fine Arts (at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts) and work alongside a number of other female designers, including Sarah Wyman Whitman. While Sacker is noteworthy for her broad artistic talents and varied designs, some of her most recognizable work is featured as the cover art for at least sixteen editions of books authored by famed Louisa May Alcott, including A Hole in the Wall (on display here), as well as a 1918 version of Little Women.


McManus, Blanche. The American Woman Abroad

Cover design and illustrations by Blanche McManus.

In addition to contributing the cover art for this volume, the text of The American Woman Abroad was written and “profusely illustrated” by Blanche McManus (1869-1935). Native to Louisiana, McManus traveled extensively in her lifetime and co-authored a series of travel books with her husband. She also benefited from a formal arts education in both London and Paris before establishing a Chicago-based studio for her prolific cover design and illustration practice. 

"The tan, cloth-bound book cover, featuring a red spine and a central illustration of a woman traveler with bright orange hair. The woman is depicted in a tailored suit and hat, pulling a wheeled suitcase, framed by gold-leaf sketches of a harbor and a castle in the background."
McManus, Blanche. The American Woman Abroad. New York, Dodd, Mead and Company, 1911. Cairns Collection of American Women Writers.

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